First Taste: Roast

Located on the ground level of the newly-restored Westin-Book Cadillac Hotel, Roast -- the newest restaurant of celebrity chef Michael Symon -- is a simple and practical upscale steakhouse.

Built around a bringing a fresh approach to a classic concept, Symon brought in Jeff Rose as his executive chef. Rose is a veteran from the metro Detroit area who gained his skills and experience as executive chef at Big Rock Chop House for four years after working at Tribute.

The aesthetics of Roast are impressive. It's a large space surrounded by dark-gray walls and high ceilings. There is minimal ambient lighting and the dark-wood tables are decked out with white table cloths, shiny silver, and large crystal-wine glasses.

The main room has a 14-seat communal table made from a 720-pound single piece of redwood surrounded by modern styled sofas and low tables allowing people to hang out and socialize. It screams chic and expensive.

However, the menu caters to everyone by offering reasonably-priced simple dishes that anyone can wrap their tongue around. A full selection of steaks, all dry-aged for a minimum of 21 days, will accommodate about anyone -- who isn't a vegetarian.

Like the traditional steakhouse, the menu is simple, focusing on quality ingredients, especially meat. Roast goes a step more carnal by buying whole animals for main entrée steaks and chops, utilizing every cut. From pig ears (made crispy and added to a warm spinach salad with an egg) to beef marrow (roasted in bone, with herbs, salt and pepper to house made charcuterie), nothing is wasted.

Unlike those standard steakhouses, Roast goes beyond just beef. A different animal -- roasted whole daily -- is displayed on rotisserie in a glass-encased charcoal spit and offered as a market-priced special; listed on the menu as the beast of the day. Everything is cooked over 100% charcoal, and steaks are finished over a cherry-wood grille.

Other simple pleasures grace the menu, including roasted trout with almonds and brown butter, braised-beef short ribs with pickled chilies and lemon-roasted chicken with arugula, chick peas and yogurt -- all under $25.

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