First Taste: El Barzon

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El Barzon

Metromix Detroit First Tastes

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One could debate on whether food should be simple in design, ingredients and concepts or complex in flavor profiles, arrangements and the like. Regardless where you stand on this, you have to believe that there has to be some earthly connection to what is put in front of you to eat, right? I’m talking about love (or something like that anyways) – of food, of the atmosphere, the complexity, the simpleness, the experience.

Talk to Chef Norberto Garita for a minute and the concept of love becomes more and more real. He loves his food, and he loves his restaurant – and so should you. It is, after all, the perfect blend of Mexican and Italian cuisines put together. That’s right, two ethnicities under one roof. While you’re humming along to De Camino a la Vereda, right in front of you is some of the freshest Fettuccine alla Bolognese. Simple or complex, however you define it – this is El Barzon.

Chef Norberto says he’s living the dream having come from the farmlands in Puebla, Mexico, making his way to the kitchens of New York, moving into the sous chef position for eight years at Il Posto Ristorante and finally landing his own restaurant in late 2006.

From the beginning, there has always been two sides of the menu -- Mexican specialties and Italian cuisine. A very substantial menu, its complexity is out shined by the simplicity of the freshness in its ingredients.

The Italian side offers a wide variety of house made pastas (ravioli, cavatelli, lasagna, fettuccine, gnocchi, tagliatelle), paired with sauces made from scratch. House favorites are the Strozzapreti Norcina (twisted house made pasta with a ragu of Italian sausage) and Cavatelli all Boscaiola (cavatelli pasta with dry porcini mushrooms in a cream sauce).

On the other side of the menu (literally), are the Mexican specialties. Here are traditional entrees such as the tacos and tortas that you would find in a taqueria, a variety of fajitas (made with chicken, beef or shrimp) and other Mexican fare including tamales made on site.

Other solid choices include the Cecina El Barzon (a thin sliced steak with fresh arugula, jalapenos, and tomato) or the dish straight from Chef Norberto’s childhood, the Mole Poblano (a poached chicken breast, with a mole sauce made with chile seco, tomatillo, anix, bread, bananas, chocolate and a variety of other ingredients). Any true foodie that’s eaten his or her share of mole can tell you, a good one is made with time and love. Try it at El Barzon, you’ll be amazed.

Dinner specials make their way onto the menu and often include wonderful lamb or veal chops. The owners recently paired themselves with an extensive wine selection and maintain a complete tequila and mezcal listing.

Mexican and Italian, paired together. Love in southwest Detroit at reasonable prices. Simple or complex, its El Barzon.

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