First taste: Atlas Global Bistro

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Peering out from the historic building that Atlas Global Bistro occupies, diners can see they are just a stones throw away from Orchestra Hall, Comerica Park and Ford Field.

Atlas brings hip and elegant dining to the heart of downtown. Representing a new style of gourmet restaurant, “where the customers want to interact with the server and vice versa,” says Atlas’ manager Sandy Levine.

Atlas appeals to groups for business lunches and patrons in black-tie garb awaiting the Detroit Symphony Orchestra to Tiger fans in jerseys getting a bite before the game. It’s also a good spot for a later dinner because the kitchen is open until 10 p.m. on weekdays, 11 p.m. on Thursdays and until midnight on Friday and Saturday.

For the past three years the kitchen has been run by Toronto native Christian Borden. His focus is on global cuisine that is rooted with a French twist. He also likes to infuse elements of Italian, Japanese and even Thai food into his dishes.

Atlas is serious about its wine, and like the food, the wine menu changes often. In addition, they hold wine-pairing dinners every few months.  

On a recent visit to Atlas I checked out a few dishes from the new Spring/Summer menu which focuses on seasonal, locally-produced items. 

I was particularly impressed with the porcini and pancetta stuffed free range chicken breast on a bed of quinoa and spring pea tendrils. The success of this dish came from its simplicity as it wasn’t too bold or over the top. Instead it relied on the earthy nuances from the porcinis and quinoa to match up with the richness of the pancetta and chicken and it was tied together with pinot noir reduction sauce and fresh thyme which alluded to spring in Provence.

It just goes to show how in a world where restaurants compete on the size of a steak or piece of lobster, how gourmet a piece of chicken can be in the hands of a talented chef like Borden.

Next up was the tortellacci filled with braised beef and veal served in bowl of herb jus and topped with a nest of spring asparagus, frizzled onions and black truffle shavings. The beef and veal filling was braised for three hours in stock and aromatic vegetables and tasted like there was some butter in it but Borden assured none was applied. The onions were sweet and reminiscent of onion rings -- without the grease   

The most impressive factor from both of these dishes was that they were deceivingly heavy. Meaning: There was loads of rich flavor packed into every bite, but was absent of any heavy fats, leaving me feeling light and energized after a seemingly rich dinner. 

For dessert Borden prepared an ever frothy sabayon made of egg whites, white wine, Galliano liqueur and sugar, which he served in the middle of fresh raspberries and grapefruit slices topped with vanilla bean.

I found the bar to be a nice way to kill some time, talking to the knowledgeable bartenders and sampling an array of eclectic liquors and beer, like the Dogfish-head brewery 90 minute I.P.A. which is hard to find.

Atlas is a great option on the town whether you’re out with friends and feel like a unique dining experience, going to the symphony or just having a drink and some appetizers at the bar.       

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